NOT KEEPING SCORE

Typing furiously, with pearls of sweat upon her brow, Ms. deJong — a non-caffeine-drinker — remarks, “I’ve had one dainty cup of Turkish coffee and am atlamak-ing off the walls!
She and her mother finally set off for Faralye, the original desination of their Turkish adventure, for a week of twice-a-day yoga, blue waters and homemade […]

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The next morning I had early morning coffee with Özcan. He showed me his “treasures” — ancient Roman / Constantine artifacts he found while digging near his hometown. Interested in archeology, he tells me that ancient artifacts are property of the Turkish government, but for the most part they don’t take much interest in creating […]

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Our second-to-last night in Olüdeniz my mom and I ate dinner at a table decorated with fresh rose petals. Nehire, who does reception at Mellis Hill, entertained us with belly dancing and…. tried… to teach us a few moves.
Things were going great until I tried to show off that, yes — I, too, can […]

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On getting lost: “Very easy to find — it’s right next to the mosque”

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Time for Turkish Lesson Number İki (two)! — keeping in mind Shannon may have spelled some things incorrectly…
Yok Ba (Yohk bah) “I don’t believe it” Best when said to someone giving you a compliment and you want to reply (always while smiling) “stop it…” or “shucks…”
Allahla! (Ah-la-la) “Come on!” as if in frustration or anger
çok nefis (choke […]

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Have moved on to Faralye, an incredibly quaint village about 40 minute drive into the pine-covered mountain where Yuva, our yoga retreat, takes place. It is truly a treasure of a place: remote, quiet save for the rooster and cicadas (no internet whatsoever… barely hot water), 180 degrees from Olündeniz, with the most amazing views […]

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Now, I’ve gotten a deep tissue massage, Thai massage, Swedish massage, and countless sports injury massages — but a Turkish massage at the Hamam is somethıng else altogether. For 20 lire (about fourteen dollars) you can be hand washed… imagine that: personal lathering, and you don’t even have to sleep wıth the person.
In your bathing […]

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Modern Turkey (esp. Istanbul, European influenced and tourist towns) is much different than anticipated, I’m finding. In fact, after spending a couple of days dressing very conservatively, covering my head in mosques, and downplaying my instinctual forwardness - even I was shocked to see Brits waltzing around in crop-tops and short-shorts.
I have made my way […]

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Istanbul
5 minutes to show time I have to use the WC and oh dear! the line and so I get ushered into the men’s room (is this okay?!) to use the western toilet while three men stand at urinals. This, after Lonely Planet has instructed not even to sit next to a male, or make […]

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Let’s just take a moment to appreciate breakfast: (shall we?)

Bread with Rose Jam & Feta Cheese
Plain (goaty) yogurt with Lychee sauce, dried apricots & figs
Tomato & Cucumber with Swiss Cheese
Triangle Cheese with Cream Cheese on Feta Cheese
Egg in egg dish

Then on to explore the Blue Mosque, the Grand Bazaar, Spice Bazaar, Aya Sofia, the old city Cicern (each […]

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